Our last day in Antarctica!!
Considering yesterday’s issue with ice and/or wind, landing on Penguin Island was no guarantee today. Hurtigruten had never landed at Penguin Island, so this was a first for everyone. There were a couple of postponements due to weather, but they finally decided we were good to Zodiac across the water, landing on the beach.
The ride from ship to shore was a rough one. Jay was at the front of the Zodiac which is usually the wettest position, and this time was no different. There was so much surface movement that nearly the entire boat got a bit of a soaking. Once at the beach, she had to walk from the Zodiac to the spot where the expedition team had hand-carved steps into the frozen snow. That walk alone was the most treacherous part of the day! There was still some ice around the stones, and we were told to avoid the ice, but it was a challenge. Adding to that, the rocks were of varying shapes and sizes though a lot of them did have a flat surface. Imagine playing ‘The Floor is Lava’ with heavy muck boots. Feeling a bit apprehensive about walking along the rocky shore, Jay asked for an expedition team member to escort her across the rocks. The expedition team is awesome, patient, and extremely safety minded, so they were quite willing to walk across the rocks. Thankfully!
Once at the frozen man-made steps was an expedition team member to give us the rules, with the number one rule being “don’t stray off the path”. There were other precautions, such as how slushy it was in parts, and they recommended walking poles. Grabbing those was a smart move!
The path led upward, and then was a bit level, and then upward again. Doesn’t sound challenging until you tromp through snow & slush wearing heavy muck boots that don’t fit quite right. The path was a huge loop, ending at exactly where it began. The island had a good bit of area that wasn’t under snow, most notably the cone of the volcano. A lot of the larger stones were clear of snow and had a lot of lichen growing on them and we were told to steer clear of large rocks/lichen. A guide later said that studying the lichen can help determine the age of a volcano.
The path did provide a good view of the ship, surrounding icebergs, and land across the water, but it was a bit grueling at times. Again, Jay blames most of it on those d*&^ boots as she knew wearing her own shoes/boots would have served her well. In case you haven’t read about the boots yet…. Using Hurtigruten’s muck boots are mandatory for visiting Antarctica, no other footwear is allowed.
This is partially to the wearer’s benefit, but very much so a benefit to the continent to ensure that we’re not dragging various things from home, such as seeds. Before leaving the ship each time, we have to step into a bleach bath and when we return we have to use the boot scrubber. Picture an automatic car wash with hard bristles. You step in, push the button, and step out once finished. Kinda weird but it serves a very important purpose!
At about 1/3 of the way through the path, Jay asked an expedition team member if there were penguins on the island that day. She said if there were, they would be on the other side, but she hadn’t heard one way or the other. Of course, Jay had to keep trudging through the slushy/frozen path in hopes to see penguins!
About 2/3 through one of the expedition team members said that the penguins were on another part of the island, which is a prohibited area. Dang it…. But, there’s a bright side. Bright-ish. A snowstorm rolled in, bringing a gentle snow, adding to the experience of the excursion. Nearing the end of the path, Jay was a few feet behind a couple just as a Skua swooped down in front of the couple, so close it looked like its wings touched the snow. It didn’t negate the fact that there were no visible penguins, but it was amazing to see a big bird that close!
Getting back to the ship was an ordeal as well. Not so much ordeal, but an experience. Trudging along the rocks again, several members of the expedition team were positioned ready to help people back across the beach and to the waiting Zodiac.
The sea was getting quite strong, but Jay was able to jump into the Zodiac the proper way without much hassle or help. If you’ve ever tried to stand in the rough sea, with five layers of clothing on the top and three on the bottom, hopping into a boat that was constantly moving, you can understand what a challenge this was!
Once in the boat, we started back to the ship. In the hour we were on the island, a bunch of sea ice had broken apart and was drifting between the ship and the Zodiac. The driver took it nice and slow as he navigated through the ice maze. He idled down a few times and, on one such occasion, a Skua decided to journey with us. He was maybe 10 feet above our heads and just drifted in the air above us. Since the water was so choppy, Jay decided to record this as a mental memory rather than get her camera out.
Transferring from Zodiac to ship was tricky. The sea was still a tad angry and had a lot of movement. To get off the Zodiac, we stepped on the small step they provide, put both boots on the edge of the Zodiac, and then transfer to the gangway as the water rose. The expedition team, as always, was very prepared for this and made sure everyone knew exactly when to step and to not rush.
The entire excursion was exhausting but a unique opportunity – two Skua encounters, two rough boat rides, and snow in Antarctica!
In the evening, we set sail across the Drake Passage for the Falkland Islands. Since we’ll not see land for 48-ish hours there might not be much blogging for days 11-12. But we never know when a new adventure will pop up!